| A GREAT MIDTOWN RESTAURANT
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By Edith Hall Friedheim
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| Thalia Restaurant |
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There was a time not so long ago when Eighth Avenue was a culinary no-man's land without a single noteworthy restaurant. What happened? Five pioneering partners took a chance and succeeded. The neighborhood has since grown up and the Thalia - its namesake is the Greek muse of good cheer - has become a midtown treasure. Here, in sleek, almost theatrical surroundings, it's a real surprise to find warm and wonderful Contemporary American food at reasonable prices, the kind that inspires rave reviews and a fiercely loyal clientele. The night we visited, the place was jumping with a mostly younger crowd, many of them unwinding on comfortable leather couches in a bar/lounge that has its own all-day menu and a raw bar offering the freshest clams, mussels, and 10 varieties of oysters. (Fish and seafood are house specialties, but the chicken, beef, lamb and pastas are equally delicious.) We opted for the dining room. My three-course prix fixe menu was a terrific value, with a delicate, subtle starter of chilled cauliflower and leek soup, followed by roast free-range chicken, potato puree and roasted tomatoes in lighter-than-light rosemary garlic sauce. My companion's tuna tartare appetizer, ordered from the regular menu, was a work of art, garnished with paper-thin granny smith slices and a pancake. Chef Patrick Frawley is an alchemist. Natural ingredients are used in surprising, yet simple ways. For example, a fresh cucumber juice rosotto informs his signature Mustard Seed Crusted Salmon with a crisp, light buoyancy. Not to mention what gorgonzola cheese, sauteed fresh spinach, and crisp asparagus do for a classic strip steak. Desserts are irresistible. Ours, a perfect baked-to-order chocolate ganache with a liquid center, was chosen from the prix fixe menu other worthy options included Earl Grey tea ice cream, chocolate caramel mousse torte, and caramel creme brulee. "We treat our customers as we would treat guests in our own home," co-owner Avi Camchi told us recently, "and because our clientele includes Broadway show people as well as neighborhood regulars and theater-bound tourists, we have to perform at top level every day and night. That means great cuisine and attentive service." All in all, the Thalia has much to teach some of New York's less friendly, snarlier restaurants. AMBIANCE: Glamorous, upbeat, welcoming. SETTING: Dramatic, with high ceilings and open spaces the decor features rounded, deep red walls decorated with antique French movie posters and colorful glass objects displayed in niches lighting is a little dim for comfort. PRICES: With three wines, the same prix fixe menu as mine at an agreeable $30.03 would come to $45. (Prices, hours, and menu may vary so we suggest you call.) CREDIT CARDS: All. RESERVATIONS: Highly recommended. TELEPHONE: (212) 399-5555 HOURS: Restaurant hours are Mon-Fri noon to 2:30 p.m. (lunch) and 5:30 p.m. to midnight (dinner) Sat-Sun 11:30 a.m. to midnight. The lounge is open from noon to midnight Mon-Wed, later on weekends. URL: www.restaurantthalia.com
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